We Got Restless...Chapter 2

Sunday, July 14 - Eastport, Maine

This is the easternmost city in the continental  US and one of the most interesting small towns we have ever visited!  Only about 1300 people, but SO much going on.  An incredible network of volunteers makes this little place just hum, and the sense of “family” we felt as we made our way around town showed us how it all works.  There are also whitetail deer walking around everywhere, but they’re just a local nuisance. 

First of all is our guide, Tess.  An absolutely remarkable woman who is at the center of everything in Eastport.  Her family has been here - right here in Eastport - since pre-Revoutionary War, and she is a bottomless font of information and history.  She’s a retired elementary school teacher, but she is by no means retired.  In addition to being a tour guide when needed, she is a certified kayak and outdoor adventure guide, ordained minister, on just about every board and committee in town, and I wish I could spend days and days with her.  And she’s 68!!  In addition, our bus driver, Richard, was one of Tess’s 3rd grade students!  He’s also the fire chief, on the school board, head of the industrial arts program at the local high school, and a teacher.  Everyone we met does half a dozen things - I guess with a population of 1300, it’s the only way things get done!

We drove all round the town listening to Tess’s narration and soaking in the history and the love she and her compatriots have for this place.  I can’t describe the feeling, but it was just wonderful.  I was so fascinated by her stories, I didn't even take very many photos!

This is the oldest house in Eastport

Our first stop was at the Fort Sullivan Barracks Museum.  It is housed in what was the barracks of this fort that no longer exists.  It’s not really about the fort, just a collection of stuff and photos and information about the town and its history.  It isn’t open on Sundays, but Tess made a call.  

Next we went to Raye’s Mustard Mill, a Maine institution since 1900 and the last mustard mill in the Western Hemisphere!  Fascinating place.  Still family owned, the great-grandson/nephew being at the helm now.  Over 30 different varieties of mustard - all delicious.  Google it!  You can order it online and I guarantee you’ll love it.  It came to be here because the sardine fishing and packing industry was flourishing here at the turn of the century and sardines were canned in mustard.  When the sardine business went away - over-fishing and changing tastes - they turned their attention to table mustards and they’re fabulous.  They’re constructing a large building around the old original mill which we were in and making a museum.  It’s a huge community effort and, naturally, Tess is on the board.  Also - she was this guy’s 4th grade teacher.

No photos allowed inside.

Our next stop was the Lighthouse Lobster & Bait Company.  It’s also been here forever and ever in the same family and the “kid” who talked to us wasn’t just a former student of Tess’s, she is officiating at his wedding next month!!  He told me after our visit that he was so nervous giving his presentation in front of his teacher.

Michael, a lobster trap, and the storage tank.

Lobster bait

How to measure and tell if they're male or female

At this facility, lobster fishermen bring in their catch, and it is stored until shipped out.  They can store them alive for quite awhile, by keeping them in cold enough water that they actually hibernate.  They have 10’s of thousands of lobsters there all the time at various stages of the process.  We also learned that the waters near Eastport are the best scallop grounds in the world!  Who knew.

There is also a whirlpool off the shore here - “Old Sow”.  So named because they thought it sounded like a pig back in the day.  It’s the largest tidal whirlpool in the Western Hemisphere and is caused by the meeting and exchange of waters between Passamaquoddy Bay and the Bay of Fundy.  You’ll need to ask Siri if you want more scientific deets on that.  We couldn’t really see it from shore, but Tess showed us a pretty cool photo of it.

As you can see, I was completely taken by Eastport and would love to come back here again sometime.  

In 2001, a TV show "Murder in a Small Town" was filmed in Eastport. It involved contestants collecting clues about a fictitious murder and solving the case.  The winner was a firefighter from The Bronx named Angel Juarbe, Jr.  The above statue was made as a prop for the show and left to the city by the producers as a gift.  Just after the show aired, the people of Eastport found out that Angel had been killed responding to the towers on 9-11.  They put a plaque on the statue honoring Angel and a volunteer committee keeps it in good shape. 

Next stop - St Andrews by-the-sea, New Bruswick!